Located high in the foothills of the Sibillini Mountains National Park in the province of Macerata, Terre di Serrapetrona is devoted to the Marche’s exotic rare bird, Vernaccia Nera. Of the 21 hectares they have under vine, 17 are Vernaccia Nera, which they translate into multiple tiers of wine, including their stunning “Collequanto”, a dolce DOCG, and a spicy, charismatic Rose Brut. For most of their bigger reds, a small percentage of the grapes undergo a drying process. “Here in Serrapetrona,” says owner-winemaker Stefano Graidi, “appassimento is not a trend but a historic tradition and a necessity – the thick, tannic skins of Vernaccia Nera grown at altitude leave us with little choice.” Committed to preserving and developing this historic grape (believed to have been grown in these hills since “Roman land division times”), Stefano and his small crew do virtually everything on their farm by hand and are in a constant state of experimentation. (Named “Vernaccianera” Secca Vernaccia di Serrapetrona DOCG, they even have what may be the world’s only “triple fermentation” sparkling wine!)

In terms of climate, this area is high, dry, and very windy, with confluent breezes emanating from both mountain and Adriatic Sea. All vines are planted between 500-600 meters, so diurnal swings can be dramatic, and late October harvests are not unusual. The gorgeous slopes tend to be steep and verdant, with mostly marly-calcareous and white clay soils. (This whole area was prehistorically under water.) Most vines were planted around the year 2000, with only 2 hectares of new plantings to date.